Amazing Collection of APPMI Designers in JFW 2008
Jakarta - 22 August 2008

Afro-Latin bass beats pumped the atmosphere of inside the tent with anticipation for the APPMI show on the second day of Fashion Mode Indonesia – Jakarta Fashion Week 2008.

The words of Taruna K Kusmayadi, Head of APPMI: “fashion should be admired but fashion should also be worn and it is right for fashion shows to be held everywhere that can be open to the public, not only in five star hotels, it should be displayed everywhere for all to see”, embodies the very essence of the APPMI show today. Featuring clothes geared more towards the public; the designers are showing their ready-to-wear and ready-to-wear deluxe collections. “Designers should be ready for more wearable fashion,” said Taruna.

The Muslim wear section opened the APPMI show with six designers. Long-standing designer Monika Jufry’s collection called My Heritage featured fashionable contemporary Muslim wear in flowing fabrics of chiffon, organza and silk, playing with colours derived from nature with her teals, pale greens and rich earth tones.  Merry Pramono enchanted with Ottoman-empire style delving into bold colours of the spectrum in her Soft Lines collection. Expression was Jeny Tjahyawati’s modern day romanticism of soft hues of lilacs and lavender floor-grazing fabrics with a touch of espadrille-like ribbons or vibrant weaves enhancing the tips of the trousers. Anne Rufaidah slipped in with a mix-match of pastels with baby pink and virgin white cottons, tulle and lace bringing out the youthful spirit in every woman with her line Sweet Eclectic. Oceanic hues and jewel tones dominated the colour of Fenny Mustafa’s Chiconstructive Mysteri collection of deconstructive-asymmetric silhouettes.  And velvety lushness fused with Paco Raban-esque light-catching panels harmonize with the layers of breezy organza in Hannie Hananto’s graphic geometry of Square Nation.

Tribes and villages across the archipelago were the organic muses for the Ethnic show. The Passion of Kartini was the theme of fashion icon Poppy Dharsono’s show, incorporating traditional weaves from Troso into her wraparound styles combined with ethnic gold jewellery and pandan handbags which presented a strong tribal flair.  Boyish pageboy cuts, eccentric necklines that frame the neck like chokers or fall off shoulder blades as if a shawl in tones of chocolate, sand and clay inspired by the Dayak tribe formed Uke Toegimin’s The Frame.  In Attractive Symbol, Dwi Iskandar’s dual tones of metallic greys and soft blacks gave him free reign to play with the piping, ruching, hemming of Thai silks, chiffons and adornments in the form of luscious folds and his asymmetrical, fanlike headpieces. The girls of Makassar were the inspiration for Popi Popi (meaning pretty doll), Lenny Augustin’s playful collection filled with all things bright on a summer’s day from her vibrant blousons and balloon skirts using silk weaves from Makassar, organdie, cotton in shocking colours that would bewilder a Bird of Paradise.

In the Cocktail Wear section, Nuove Memorie, a collection by Rebecca Ing, displayed jewel necklines, windblown transparent silk layering West Javanese printed silk. The breezy pleats on her floor-length empire line pieces that swish in pastels called upon images of Grecian goddesses. Jazz Pasay reined the catwalk with blood red, royal purple and midnight black organdie silk, taffeta and raw silk in Gadis Palembang, a series Inspired by the beauty of the city. Unbeatable by Gregorious Vici, paraded a fun-filled trip down a 60s catwalk with beehived models donning kittenish shift dresses with bold swirl patterns and floor length gowns the colour of mint sherbet, conjuring images of lounge music and Jackie O. Bringing in the rear was Oka Diputra’s Tribute to Yves Saint-Laurent. Applying his own signature style of belted and zipper-less pieces in the interpretation of the maestro’s distinctive silhouette, he married minimalism with operatic tops in muted winter greys splashed with plums and crimson.

Wild flowers were the stimuli for Malik Moestaram’s Flower Added collection in APPMI’s Modern Wear section. Bold flower prints on cotton, organza and taffeta silks dominated in turquoise, olives and plums embellished with jewel necklines, puffed sleeves and capes veiling empire waist dresses. The Past is New according the Ninik Darmawan. Using local fabrics from Yogyakarta such as lurik silks and cottons she produced jackets and pieces with a traditional twist, incorporating bronze and silver trimmings, buttons and brooches to accent her deep hues. The Joker from Batman’s the Dark Knight appeared in the form of Putu Akili’s models donning frightening masks for Let It Be.  Loose, baggy shapes of pliable cotton jersey, rayon spandex, silk crinkle in silvers, whites, gunmetal greys and blacks mingled with ninja-like silhouettes and Pippy Longstocking striped tights creating a collection that can only be described as gothic candy. For Buon Viaggio, Taruna K Kusmayadi flirted with daintiness with his massive bows, corseted batiks, kimonos mix-and-matched with eyelet trimmings, Paul Smith stripes, capelets, fitted bodices and batik prints.

APPMI’s show wrapped with the Evening Wear section. Hengki Kaliwarang sparkled on the catwalk with his melange of daring prints derived from Sumba, Klungkung weave, Padang songket embroidery with ulos from Batak and shimmering highlights.  The sweetness of Jeanny Ang’s Fluid Femininity slid down the catwalk in gentle sand and peaches for her fluid feather-light folds and soft pleats with pearl and gemstone trimmings. Printed silk, Bentenan patola and kafo motifs, chiffon silk and organdy silk duchesses create stunning couture of airy ankle-grazing coats, billowy full dresses in rich oranges and purple fit for a queen in Defrico Audy’s Exoticism Minahasa. Last but not least was Soave Femminilita by Harry Ibrahim. Inciting images of flowers in the full bloom of spring with his ruched and ruffled jackets, regal flows of satin, silk and tulle paired with transparent chiffon while using fall and sunset hues.

Meanwhile, the Sunsilk Style Lounge decked in lush charcoal fabrics, dripping ruby chandeliers and plucky pink makeup tables gave an air of stylish decadence for the designers and fashion guests who lounged in the lush interior between shows.