Reinventing Indonesia’s Greatest Assets in JFW 2008
Jakarta - 23 August 2008

As Festival Mode Indonesia – Jakarta Fashion Week 2008 approached its third day (22/08/2008), the fashion tent was bursting at the seams, filled with the upper echelons of society, local and foreign press and fashion lovers from all over Indonesia.  

Stephanus Hamy, Head of IPMI (Indonesian Fashion Designer Council) brought this massive event into perspective when he reminded us that, “We, as Indonesian designers need to carve our own identity. We are indeed influenced by the local culture and tradition but we should use them as a foundation and as references and then expand from there. We need to be creative.”

In approval Tuti Cholid noted, “One of our (Indonesia’s) greatest assets is the richness and variety of our fabrics and the craftsmanship that create these fabrics.” And with that we enter into IPMI’s display of ethnic pieces by three ladies who have build their legendary reputations on the style.

Ghea opened the show with light-as-air fabrics whose transparency is solidified only by the tribal patterns. Halterneck dresses grazed the catwalk floor, kaftans cascaded past the shoulders and models glided past with their headscarves. Indo Tribal is a collection reminiscent of the free-flowing hippie days of the 70s, her diaphanous chiffon silk and satin silk fabrics with beaded accents comprising of glass stones and semi-precious gems. In Excelinity of Lines, Tuti Cholid drew out the warm tones of indigo blue, olive, violets, gold and bronze and integrated them into her traditional lurik fabric from Java and Nusa Penida – Bali, to create streamlined silhouettes for her kaftans, puffed sleeves and ankle-length pencil skirts. Carmanita’s collection Craftphoria comprised of a play on geometrical symmetry, a style so identifiably hers. Free-falling cuts dominated her kimono-sleeved tunics, voluminous harem pants, floaty dresses and patterned leggings made from batik, stitch and dye, macramé and stretch fabrics in deep hues of tangerine, rosebud, lavender and olive.

The contemporary segment overflowed with the striking individuality of each designer. Stephanus Hamy blended lurik from Central Java, ikat weaves from Bali and Flores, and Timorese songket for his structured jackets, sleek pants, that giving traditional fabrics a contemporary edge in Metamorfosa. Models strutted in nude tones of sand, pale gold, oatmeal, camel and café au lait with a spash of canary yellow down the catwalk during SPOUS by Priyo Okaviano. The suppleness of stretch satin, jersey cotton merged with chiffon polyesters and gabardine formed the folding, draping and pleated feel of his body skimming dresses and tops. Vermillion, lilac and fawn were pitted against skin-tight leather pants; loose kaftan mini dresses splashed with bright patterns, Pocahontas-like fringed tops, a sleeveless raincoat the colour of daffodils. With her bold motifs, monochromes, layers, puffs, tie-dyes, jewelled necklines, Dalmation dots, tiger stripes, volume and sleekness – the one red thread Kanaya Tabitha’s collection was indeed Provocative.

Collaborating with the Pixel People Project from Bandung, Era Sukamto’s X Label utilized the Parang Rusak batik motif that was processed through a fractal mathematical formula. The result was a stark white collection with whispery blushes of soft pinks around the transparency of her tops and an occasional grey piece in the mix. The elegant outlines of her high-waisted trousers and pencil skirts paired with blousons, high-collared shirts and vests create outfits perfect for the modern woman. Up-and-coming designer Liliana Lim gave the solidity of her duchesse and shantung fabrics an ethnic vibe with woven ikat patterns from Eastern Indonesia in her collection, Weaving Elegance. The natural fibres of the traditional garment were incorporated into her graceful pieces of metallic and nude tones, giving her floor-length dresses a more grounded feel due to the heavy character of the fabric.

Layered folds, soft pleats, swishes of silk, billowy dresses reminiscent of Parisian pastries in gradations of velvety brown to creamy chocolate worked into Denny Wirawan’s satin organza, shantung silk, crepe and chiffon silk pieces for Naturalistic Poetry. While Ari Seputra swept the catwalk with shades of camel, terracotta, olives and coffee with his free-flowing pieces comprising of tasselled kaftans, buoyant dresses and Mongolian inspired jackets, merging silk prints with solids, enhancing them with semiprecious stones in Interfuse. Bows, bows, bows, folded bows, full bows, half bows, massive bows and mini bows, all integrated on A-line silhouettes, mini and maxi dresses. As necklines, as sleeves, on tops and as belted drapes.

Syahreza Muslim’s Ribbonism was flowing over like girlish giggles in light puffs of lemony yellow, soft grays and blacks. Doll-like models entered the stage with crimson lips and virginal white cocktail dresses whispering of femininity with Valentino Napitupulu’s elegant lines, flirting with chiffon corsage blooms, beaded fringes and brocade sprinkled with Swarovski crystals on satin taffeta, French lace and raw silk in Grey Area.

And as the night sky appeared, the classics glistened with stylish sophistication led by Chossy Latu’s collection, Posh Independence – assimilating batik fabric as the crowning glories, the finishing touches to accentuate his structured and polished black and white silhouettes.  Another definitive master of the classic is Rusly Tjohnardi who courted the audience in Trocadero with the amalgamation of hardness and gentleness by his blend of silk, chiffon crepe with taffeta and tulle, the traditional touch of bold Makasar weaves juxtaposed against gemstone hues of amethyst and cobalt. 

Following the conclusion of the IPMI show was the much-anticipated CLEO Fashion Awards, which received a huge turnout at the Style Promenade. Staged for the world to see in the centre of Pacific Place mall, the likes of Luna Maya, VJ Marissa, Dominique Diyose, Ivan Gunawan, Bernard from B Management and Herlina Halid (CLEO Fashion Editor) mingled with named designers who were present to support their peers and the general public. Labels such as SunZ, Bebe, Diesel, Gap, Optik Seis and La Senza were among the many recipients of the CLEO and Reader’s choice awards. It was an action-packed show of flowered prints, experimental necklines, rock n’ roll distressed leather, hooded denim capes, vintage-style frocks with splashes of appliquéd sequins and felt and exquisitely sophisticated silhouettes from spirited young designers such as Stella Rissa, Olive, Heirloom and many others.